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The Benefits of Large Birdcages

We’ve all heard the phrase, “Free as a bird.” In the wild, birds are free, flying from tree to tree in effortless abandon. At home, we should recreate that environment to the greatest degree possible. In general, we should buy the largest cage that will safely accommodate our feathered friend.

In order to be comfortable, birds need ample space in order to be comfortable. It should be able to spread its wings easily and move from perch to perch. Like all of us, birds need exercise. It stands to reason, then, that larger or more active birds need large bird cages.

A macaw, for example, needs a cage that is at least three feet long and five feet wide! Amazons, African grays, conures, and cockatoos also require large bird cages, though not as large as the macaw. Before making such a purchase, make sure that you have enough space available in your home.

Large bird cages are available in a variety of materials, such as wood, metal, iron, stainless steel, and acrylic. You can choose based on many factors, but convenience should definitely be considered. Your large bird cage will need to be cleaned regularly, and stainless steel or metal cages are usually the easiest to clean.

Large bird cages are available at most pet stores and specialty bird stores. They can also be ordered online. For a large bird cage built specifically for your space, you might consider a custom bird cage.

Bird Cages Info provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as covers and stands. Bird Cages Info is the sister site of Dog Beds Web.

Article Source: EzineArticles.com

 

How to set up a fish tank

Have you ever wanted to set up a fish tank but thought it would be too complicated?

Have you ever been in a doctor’s office and noticed they have a fish tank? The aim is to make the environment more relaxing and friendly. Studies have been done that demonstrate that having a fish tank and watching the fish swim has a moderate effect on lowering blood pressure. Maybe this is the reason you have decided to set up a fish tank or perhaps it is that “first pet” for you to teach your child responsibility. Whatever the reason it is important to be able to set up a tank easily and properly. Most people start out with a ten gallon aquarium because that is the easiest and least expensive when starting the hobby of fish keeping.

The biggest consideration when setting up your ten gallon aquarium is to decide whether you want to house tropical fish or goldfish. Tropical fish are often more colourful but they need a heater, whereas goldfish are the old standby and generally do not need a heater. The steps for setting up the aquarium are the generally the same with a few exceptions.

It is important to go to the pet store with an idea of what items you will need. The first and most obvious is the tank. Ten gallon tanks can differ in shapes and styles. It is important to find one that you like and will fit most suitably in your decor. You will also need a hood with lights. The hood is need so the fish don’t jump out. The lights in the hood are needed in case you decide to have live plants (light is needed for the plants to grow), and also so that you can see the fish. You can vary the timing of the light, either manually or with an inexpensive electric timer. It shouldn’t be on continuously because excessive light promotes algae growth. It is important that your tank not be in front of a window because sunlight also causes an extreme amount of algae growth.

An air pump is essential to an aquarium. An air pump helps oxygenate the water. The pump is connected to the electrical supply and is usually a black box that sits behind the aquarium. It should never come in contact with the water because it can be dangerous. You can have a variety of air stones or ornamental ornaments that help circulate the oxygen in the tank.

You will also need some sort of filtration system. Filters remove waste matter and help keep the water pure for months at a time. There are mechanical filters which have become more common. The most common mechanical filter and the cheapest is a square transparent box fitted inside the aquarium with an airlift. There should be a lid on this type of filter and inside the box there should be nylon floss. After you connect the filter to the air supply, the water is filtered through the nylon floss. When this nylon floss is dirty you can either replace it or wash it out (although you CAN wash it, it is important to change the floss every so often).

There are also biological filters. These are the undergravel filters. An undergravel filter is a perforated plate that is under the gravel in the tank, connected to a pump. Water is drawn through the gravel where the wastes are trapped. These wastes are then broken down by beneficial bacteria in the tank. A mechanical filter is much more efficient at keeping the tank clean. The biological filters do not work as well and for the most part are considered antiquated.

A heater is needed for tropical fish. The rule of thumb to buying a heater is to buy five watts of power per gallon of water. For example if you have a ten gallon tank you should have a fifty watt heater. It is important not to stray too far away from this rule because if you get a heater that is too much wattage you risk having an unwanted fish fry. Tropical fish need to be kept at at temperature anywhere from 78-82 depending on the species of fish. Goldfish generally do not need a heater; they are able to live in water that is 65 degrees faraheneit. The heater that you buy may already been preset at the correct temperature but most heaters will have a dial at the top in which you can adjust the temperature. You will need a thermometer so that you can check the heater is functioning correctly. Most thermometers you can buy in the pet store will attach to the side of the tank by suction cups.

Another item that you will need that makes a tank complete is gravel. It is not necessary to have gravel but a fish tank looks better with it. How much gravel is needed? The way to calculate how much gravel you will need is to take 2.5 and multiply it by the the gallon size of your tank. For example if your tank is 10 gallons you will need 22.5 pounds of gravel. It may seem like a lot but when you add the water it won’t seem like very much at all. There is no need to boil the gravel. People used to have a misconception that before you placed the gravel in the tank it had to be sterile. Most of this is already done for you and your filter will handle the rest.

Some odds and ends that you will need to make your tank complete are a fish net, fish food (the type obviously depends on the type of fish you put in your tank), a water conditioner (one that has a dechlorinating agent), and a bacteria starter. The bacteria starter is one of the most important things to have for the setup of your aquarium. This agent creates a balance of healthy bacteria in your tank that will help in breaking down fish wastes.

An optional choice for your aquarium is an aquarium stand. Most people set their tanks on a shelf or a sturdy table. This is fine. Some prefer to make it a little classier and add a tank stand that the tank rests upon. Another optional item is decorations. This generally is at your discretion, as fish don’t have an opinion one way or the other, but some fish like to hide behind rocks and won’t be happy unless they indeed have a place to take a break.

When setting up the tank, it is important to read all the instructions that come with the filter, the heater, and so on. Each filter or heater may be slightly different in set up and you want to make sure that you do these things correctly to ensure the safety of you and your fish.

Before you can add fish you must let the tank run for at least a week. This is the most important step. Letting the tank run allows the temperature and water to adjust to baseline levels. Also it allows the bacteria starter to start building a bacteria base. It is always recommended that before you add fish you may want to get your water tested. This is important because water can be different by county or state and you may have an exceptionally high pH level or chlorine level in your water.

Now that you have let the tank run for a week and the water seems fine, you are ready to add fish. Keep in mind to add fish that all get along with each other. Also, add slowly. If you decide to start out with goldfish, because of their messy nature you want to allow 2 gallons of water per inch of goldfish. For tropical fish you want to allow at least 1 gallon of water per inch of tropical fish. Remember to consider the size that the fish will get to! A common myth is that fish will only grow according to their tank size. This is absolutely not true.

If you do decide to start out with tropical fish, you want to make sure they are all compatible. For a beginner it is best to start out with community fish such as guppies, mollies, and so on. It is important to add fish slowly; a ten gallon tank maybe only start out with three or four, even though it will eventually be able to support ten inches of fish. Keep in mind that certain types of fish may need to be in schools, fed a certain diet, or have a certain pH level. If new to the hobby of fishkeeping, it is always best to ask for help in the selection of your fish and also setting up your tank if you have any questions.

So now that you have the basics you are ready to get started. Once they start the hobby of fishkeeping, many people find it hard to stop. Sometimes if you have an inclination that you may like this hobby it is best to start out with a bigger tank. Of course if you are not sure whether this is a passing phase you may just want to invest into the ten gallon or even a smaller fish tank. Pet store employees are often a wealth of knowledge when it comes to fishkeeping, so any doubts that you have can be answered before you get frustrated. Pet stores also sometimes have great starter kits that have everything you need to get you started. It is always important to read and research the idea before you plunge in.

 

 

Cat Communication

Cats may not be able to speak English but they do have many other ways in which they can 'talk' to you. Cats are cognitive animals, they solve problems just like any other highly developed species. Cats can and will communicate with you if you allow them to express themselves, talk back to them and try to understand what they are saying. Learn what your cat's different signals mean so that you and your cat can communicate regularly. This will not only improve the bond with your cat and keep your cat happy, but it will also allow you to better read your cat's signals so you know when your cat wants to play or just wants to be left alone!

 

Tails
Tails are probably one of the best communication indicators that cats have. One can almost read every cat feeling and thought by looking at his/her tail.

  • Tail arched and puffed out or bristled - your cat is scared or fearful and is ready to attack or defend itself. The bristling is instinctual as it makes the cat look larger.
  • Tail straight up in the air and fully puffed out or bristled - your cat is angered, aggressive and ready to attack.
  • Tail straight up in the air and quivering a bit - your cat's tail moves this way when spraying urine to mark territory; however, once your cat is spayed or neutered he/she will continue to move his/her tail this way (without any spray or urine being excreted) when you greet him/her. This is your cats way of saying, 'hi, it's your loving cat!'
  • Tail straight up and unmoving - an unabashed greeting. This is what a mother cat does to her kitten to tell him/her to inspect her rear.
  • Tail straight up but the tip tilted to one side - your cat is very interested and intrigued by something; your cat is happy and friendly.
  • Tail straight up or just slightly raised and curved like a question mark - your cat is very excited and interested in something.
  • Tail curved down and then back up again near the tip - your cat is very relaxed and content.
  • Tail still but tip of tail quivering or twitching - your cat is mildly irritated. Your cat may attack if the twitching becomes violent enough.
  • Tail swishing from side to side rapidly or violently - your cat is about to attack something, this is seen during fights and play time. This is not the same as tail wagging in dogs.
  • Tail held to one side - your cat is giving a sexual invitation (generally only females in heat do this).
  • Tail held low and puffed out or bristled - your cat is intensely afraid.
  • Tail held low and tucked between the hind legs - your cat is showing his submission or defeat.
Ears

Cats ears are another way that a cat expresses his/her emotions.

  • Ears pointing forward and slightly outward - your cat is relaxed and happy.
  • Ears very straight up and forward - your cat is listening to something that is intriguing.
  • Ears twitching nervously - your cat is agitated and nervous.
  • Ears flat against the head - your cat is frightened and may attack (this is instinctual as to protect the ears during a fight).
  • Ears back or in between alert and defensive position - your cat is aggressive and may attack.

Back/Fur
In general a cat's body fur remains fairly consistent; however, if you notice your cat arching his or her back and bristling you can rest assured that your cat is frightened and on the defensive. Your cat may attack at this point.

Meowing
Cats can make over 100 different vocal sounds (dogs can only make 10). These sounds encompasses a variety of meows, purrs, gurgles, and eeps which occur in a variety of tones and octaves and can mean a plethora of things. The more you talk to your cat, the more your cat will talk back and extend his/her 'vocabulary'. And a good owner will learn over time what his/her cat means by each of his/her vocal sounds. By listening to your cat and talking back, eventually you and your cat can start to 'talk' back and forth to each other with understanding. This will help the bond between you and your cat grow and entice your cat to become even more expressive.

Purring
It is still not known why cats purr. Some theories on the origin of purring include 1) the possession of false vocal cords 2) the contraction of laryngeal muscles 3) blood flow that is amplified by the diaphragm. Whatever the cause of purring a cat purrs when he or she is generally happy; although, some cats are known to only purr when they are ill. However, most cat owners will attest to the fact that their cats only purr when the are content or happy.

Growling/Hissing
Growling and or hissing means only one thing - your cat means business and wants you to back off. If your cat growls or hisses at you don't push the issue or you will be attacked.

Pupils
Cat's pupils for the most part change with the amount of the light in the room. However, if your cat become very aroused, excited or angered his/her pupils will become greatly enlarged regardless of the amount of light in the room.

Eyes
Your cats eyes can also tell you a lot about what kitty is thinking:

  • Wide open eyes - your cat is awake and ready to go
  • Wide open eyes with a little sparkle - your cat is feeling a little mischievous
  • Half closed eyes - your kitty is relaxed and ready for a cat nap! This can also mean your cat is ill if the eyes are like this on a consistent basis, even when awake.
  • Closed eyes - your cat is napping, obviously.
  • Winking/Blinking - A long slow blink means that your cat is content and relaxed.

Other Behaviors
Rolling on his/her back and exposing the belly - your cat is letting you know that he/she totally trusts you as he/she is exposing the most vulnerable part of the body. This doesn't necessarily mean that your cat wants a belly rub, just that he/she is totally comfortable with you.

Kneading - this stems from 'milk threading' that kittens do. Kittens knead their mother's belly to stimulate milk production. In doing this to you your cat is not only expressing his/her love for you as a mother-figure but also remembering the happy feelings that used to occur when the mother was kneaded.

Snoring - if your cat snores when he/she sleeps he/she is totally relaxed!

Sniffing - cats sniff each other in the wild to say hello and get to know each other. If your cat sniffs your face consider it a greeting and a way of showing that your cat trusts and likes you. Many owners even get down on the floor (face level with their cats) and touch noses when they greet.

Article courtesy of 21cats.org; All Rights Reserved.

 

 

Barking Dogs

 

Barking dogs - Dog barks too much - Why dogs bark - Getting your dog to stop barking

Dr. Stanley Coren

 

dogs barking

 … To a dog, loud short words like “no!”, “shut up!”, “don’t bark!” sound just like barks. Think of it this way. The dog barks to signal a potential problem. Now you (who are suppose to be the leader of the pack) come over and bark too. This clearly indicates that you agree that this is the right time to sound the alarm….

The procedure worked out by wild canines to stop barking is really quite simple. The pack leader, the puppy's mother, or any pack member who is obviously higher in dominance ranking can give the signal for silence. To quiet barking, the dominant animal places its mouth over the offender's muzzle, without actually biting, and then gives a short, low, and breathy growl. The low growl will not be heard very far, and is short in duration. The mouth over the muzzle is not actually inflicting pain, so there is no yelping or attempt to escape. Silence usually follows immediately.

Humans can mimic this behavior as a simple way to tell a dog to stop barking when it is near you. With your dog sitting at your left side, slip the fingers of your left hand under the collar at the back of the dog's neck. Pull up on the collar with your left hand, while your right hand folds over the top of the dog's muzzle and presses down. In a quiet, businesslike and unemotional tone, you simply say, "a Quiet." You repeat this silencing maneuver whenever it is necessary. Depending upon the breed, it may take anywhere from two to a couple of dozen repetitions to associate the calmly stated command " “Quiet" with an end to barking.

What you have done in this instance is to effectively copy the way in which the pack leader will silence a noisy puppy or other pack member. Your left hand on the collar is simply immobilizes the head. Your right hand serves the same function and communicates the same message as the leader's mouth over the noisy animal's muzzle. The softly spoken, "Quiet" mimics the short, low, breathy growl.

Be sure, however, that you use this procedure to stop a dog from barking only when barking is unnecessary, as in an obedience class or a public place. Remember that we specifically bred dogs to bark, so if your dog sounds the alarm at the approach of a stranger, or even at the sight of the cat outside your window, don't correct him. If there is no cause for any action, just call him to your side and give him a quick pet or rub. By barking, your dog is only doing the job we designed him to do thousands of years ago….


Excerpted from
How to Speak Dog from the chapter Talking Doggish and Doggerel
© Stanley Coren All rights reserved
Reprinted by permission
Dr. Stanley Coren is a professor of Psychology.
He has written 6 books on dogs and is the host
of the television show
Good Dog!

 
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